MOREH and TAMU -- Gateway to Southeast Asia

A Buddhist Monastery at Tamu - (Photo by JK)

Moreh – the last Indian township in Manipur – bordering Myanmar is just 110 km from state capital Imphal. Connected by NH 2 better known as Indo-Myanmar road, it takes about two hours to reach there in normal time. However, there are unpredictable road frisking by Assam Rifles and state police at many points causing undue delays. From Imphal to Pallel the driving is in the valley and on straight lined road. From Pallel to Moreh the passage is in the hills, serpentine and narrow. Those who suffer from motion sickness, it’s advisable to drive slowly enjoying the hill view. Inhabited mainly by the Kuki-Chin-Mizo tribes, Moreh has a sizeable chunk of Meiteis, Pangals (Manipuri Muslim), south Indians, and Biharis etc. A thriving commercial centre with a population of 16,847 (2011 Census), the township is  popular not only for its neighbouring Myanmar markets located at Namphalong (hardly a few steps away) and Tamu (4 km) but also for beautiful jungle and exotic orchids around.

From Tengnoupal – 69 km from Imphal and a former sub-divisional headquarters of Chandel district – parts of Imphal valley and Kabaw valley respectively in fine weather can be descried on opposite directions. Famed for its salubrious climate and the highest point along the route having an altitude of 1,450 m above msl, this village was strafed by Japanese bombers during Second World War in 1942. Inhabited by the Thadou Kukis pork, dog-meat, chilli, ginger, wild mushroom of various kind and other jungle grown vegetables are sold by tribal women in their vendors near the police outpost. You may be subjected to frisking by Assam Riffles. This frisking will be repeated again at Khudengthabi, 7 km before Moreh. The inside of the vehicle you’re travelling included. Earlier, there were cases of drug peddlers arrested with their contraband items along this highway. On nearing the Moreh town, from above the hill, the panoramic view of Myanmar’s Sagaing region popularly known as Kabaw Tampak or Kyam Lamjao in Manipuri which once was under Meitei Kings of Manipur can be seen. Tamu is their business hub.

In the morning market at Moreh, women vendors from Tamu come with their wares. With thanaka – a yellowish white cosmetic paste – smeared on their face to protect the sun-ray, perishable items like fish and vegetable are sold on the pavement.  One item which attracts us most was Utongchak in Manipuri, Paung din in Burmese, Kao lam in Thai. The sweet smelled, sticky, black rice (a species of Oryza sativa L.) is stuffed inside a particular bamboo stalk and cooked it in charcoal. When taken out, the cooked rice is found wrapped by the tissue paper of the bamboo inside. It’s very tasty, natural and wholesome indeed. Freshly cut flowers in various colours are sold. Clad in lungi, face pasted with thanaka, wearing a broad hat, riding either a moped or a scooter carrying her wares, this is a typical Burmese woman coming to the market.

Tamu Township in Kabaw Valley (Kyam Lamjao) seen

from a Buddhist Monastery - (Photo by JK)

When visiting Moreh, one can go to Yangoupokpi Lokchao Wildlife Sanctuary (YLWS); an interesting spot for naturalists covering an area of 184.4 sq. km. Established on March 21, 1989 the eastern boundary of YLWS is up to Myanmar border and Moreh town. It’s the only place in India where one can find Green Peafowl (Pavo muticus), Wahong Asangba in Manipuri, in this Teak-Gurjan and Tropical Moist Deciduous forest.  Declared an endangered species since 2010 by Birdlife International, the bird is distinct from common Indian Peafowl. Many other rare species of flora and fauna including Hoolock Gibbon (Yongmu) – the only ape ever found in India – and colourful orchids of  terrestrial and epiphyte varieties thrive here.  Inside the Sanctuary there are forest villages like Kwatha and Bongjang etc. A part of eastern Himalayan endemic bird area famous for harbouring rare species, the area in fact is well known for its rich bio-diversity and perhaps an ideal spot for jungle tourism (had it not been for bad law and order problem). October to April is the best time to visit this unexplored rain forest.

Vans in front of rice hotels at Moreh - (Photo by JK)

For entering Myanmar territory, there are two gates. Gate no.1 is for travellers with vehicles going Tamu direct while Gate no. 2 is for pedestrians shopping at Namphalong. Going through Gate no.1 you can see a bridge painted half white half red over a river guarded by security forces at both ends of it.

 Namphalong – a few steps distance from Moreh (India) – inside Myanmar is separated only by barbed wire fencing and is a market place sponsored by Myanmar government to cater to the needs of Indian buyers. One can surprisingly find many Nepali origin Burmese women selling clothes, crockery, household electronic appliances, fruits, toys etc., imported mainly from China and Thailand. A favourite fish of the Manipuri, Pengba (Osteobrama balangeri) and stink bean, Yongchak (Parkia speciosa), are sold here. Dressed chicken smeared with turmeric paste to retain freshness, Mandarin orange and apple from China are popular items here, among others. Their markets remain closed on full-moon days.

 Entering Namphalong is almost free. The entrance gate is open from 7 am to 4 pm IST daily. For visiting Tamu, one has to deposit his ID card at check-post gate of Myanmar authority with a ticket of 10 INR. Auto rickshaws are available and the fare is 10 INR a passenger to cover 4 km distance. He should return before 4 pm IST which is 5 pm in Myanmar. For travellers who want to go beyond Tamu, visa-on-arrival facility is on the anvil at Moreh. A bus service from Imphal to Mandalay via Moreh is in the offing.

Tamu is a fast growing Myanmar township. Near a beautiful golf field started by erstwhile British officers, there’s a sprawling campus of a big Monastery.  Monks in maroon robes with bare heads and bare feet were seen teaching children. Led by a Burmese auto driver who was our guide, we found ourselves seated inside the prayer hall of the Monastery. A traditional Burmese lunch, hosted by a newlywed couple, consisting mainly of rice and fish was being served to visitors. We offered some money as gifts to the couple. 

     

Another tourist spot is known as Thoibi Pat to the Manipuris. The legend has it that princess Thoibi of Moirang (Manipur) once took refuge here. A Pagoda is standing near a pond. In fact Pagodas are inseparable parts of the landscape. In the market the selling as usual is done mainly by women. Many of them surprisingly could speak some broken Manipuri.

The people of Tamu are courteous and helpful. No need for currency exchange. Indian rupees are happily accepted. Almost every article of household items is sold here. However, when buying items like canned fruit juice and tinned fish, care has to be taken whether the composition of the item including the expiry date is printed properly. When written in Chinese, Thai or Burmese, other than English, it becomes a problem for us. Moreover, English language newspaper or magazine is nowhere to be found. 

Hill view near Yangoupokpi Lokchao Wildlife Sanctuary - (Photo by JK)

This Indo-Myanmar region which is strategically located and commercially important attracts many visitors from different spectrum of lives far and wide – the tourists, students, officials, businessmen et al. To see foreign tourists on cycles and bikes for destinations up to Bangkok or Singapore are regular phenomenon here. Accommodations are available at Forest Rest House, Indo-Myanmar Trade Centre Rest House, Transit Camp of Wildlife Office and many other private hotels on prior booking. In fact Moreh and Tamu are two townships of India and Myanmar lying so close to each other and apart from being a gateway to Southeast Asia, they are perhaps a shopper’s paradise worth visiting.

Konjengbam Kameshore