LEIMAPOKPAM LAKPATI -- a Popular Ritual Singer

Lakpati in Nata Sankirtana attire.

When he breaks into song, he's a singer extraordinaire -- hypnotising his fans. Every nuance of the lyric makes his frame swayed; every pitch of the vocal, modulates his bhakti. During the performance, his audience would not only watch him in rapt attention but also prostrate before him, with tears even, one after another, in the centre of the mandapa, where the ceremony is being held. The ultimate devotion is ecstatic.

Leimapokpam Lakpati, a popular Nata Sankirtana performer, has captivated and enthralled the devout Vaishnavas of Manipuri Hindu society. The singer guru of the mass, shining star of the time, he has a mellifluous voice and perfect body language known as abhinaya in this musical lexicon.

His rhythmic movement of kartal cholom, dancing with hand cymbals, perfected on the tala beat of pung (mridanga), in unison with his co-artistes; all are to be seen to believe. An aesthetic synchronization of three elements namely, ritual-singing, dancing and drumming into one art form called Nata Sankirtana -- a religious performance -- to eulogise the Lord Krishna Chaitanya. Yes -- an intangible cultural heritage of humanity indeed.

The Nata Sankirtana is one of the most popular cultural aspects in the lives of Manipuri Hindus. The style came from Bengal (and possibly Assam also) and this musical type got mixed with Manipuri traditional folk tune. Started as Bangadesh pala in 1709 AD, followed by Manoharshai pala in 1850, the genre got rooted to the cultural soil of the State during the time of king Garibniwaj (1709 - 1748). During the reign of Rajashri Bhagyachandra (1764 - 1789) it had reached its pinnacle of fame.

Lakpati enacting kartal cholom.

 No religious functions like marriage or shradha ceremony were complete without a Sankirtana programme. Even the famous Manipuri classical dance – Ras Leela – which is one of the eight classical dances of India recognised by Sangeet Natak Akademi is an extension of this musical form. Every Ras Leela programme is preceded by a Nata Sankirtana performance. The tandava (masculine) and lasya (feminine) characteristics are beautifully manifested in this ritual performance through cholom and prayer-singing.

This tradition of singing has been religiously practised and guarded since then. A part of Manipuri Hindu lifestyle, there are many exponents and gurus and they are respectably called Oja. Leimapokpam Lakpati is one such Oja. He learned the music from his father Herachandra first and hence his adi guru. Thereafter, he attended the schools of various gurus like Laishram Tolpishak, Khangembam Gulapi, Thangjam Chaoba, and Y. Birahari etc., among others. Besides, he learnt Hindustani classical music from Phurailatpam Devkeshor Sharma, the principal of Government Music College, Imphal.

Born at Imphal on August 12, 1953, Oja Lakpati today is sixty three years young. He spent his childhood period for about ten years in a village called Elangkhangpokpi, near Kakching, 45 km south of Imphal. This gave him exposure to Meitei rural folk-song called Khunung-ishei. Afterwards, he returned to present home situated at Kwakeithel Nganapithong and married to Boro Devi. He slowly yet steadily got himself transformed into a popular ritual singer par excellence. By virtue of his sterling performance, he was continuously invited to perform at various ceremonies and functions like Luhongba, Shradha, Upanayana, Karnabedha, Khubak ishei, Nupa pala, Udukhon, Goura leela etc. He wrote books and attended many seminars also.

He also performed at many places outside Manipur like Cachar, Agartala, Guwahati, Kolkata, Nabadwip (West Bengal), Gujarat, Italy and Paris etc. He received Sangeet Natak Akademi Award, New Delhi in 2001; Sangeet Ratna citation from Manipuri Sahitya Parishad in 2002; Kala Ratna from KALASADAN, Mumbai in 2004; and Senior Fellowship in Manipuri Music (Nata Sankirtana) from Department of Culture, Ministry of HRD, GOI in 1998 etc., among others. Many of his programmes were aired through AIR and DDK in Imphal and Guwahati. He appeared in a Manipuri film also.

The ultimate devotion is ecstatic.

Since May, 2015, he has been a visiting guru of Jawaharlal Nehru Manipur Dance Academy, Imphal, a constituent unit of Sangeet Natak Akademi, New Delhi. He could not forget his gurus. To pay tribute to them – living and dead – Oja Lakpati has been organising guru kirtana ceremony every year, on full moon day of Manipuri month Mera Wayungba, in October, since the last seventeen years without fail.

The Oja is at present Director of Gulapi Nata Sankirtana Akademy, Imphal – an institute devoted to uphold the value and tradition of Manipuri Nata Sankirtana and to preserve guru-sishya parampara. Some of his popular students today are Laishram Itomcha, Meisnam Gouradas, Moirangthem Inaoton, Rajmohon, and Meinasing etc.

Had there been a ritual singer in Manipur who devoted his entire life to the cause of Nata Sankirtana, he could perhaps be none other than Leimapokpam Lakpati himself – a doyen of Manipuri culture.

Konjengbam Kameshore

(Courtesy: Eastern Panorama; Shillong, May, 2016)

PINEAPPLES OF MANIPUR

"Fruit that would have done credit to Covent Garden"

- Sir James Johnstone, British Political Agent, Manipur

Come summer – pineapples are everywhere in Manipur. Known as Kihom in Manipuri, Anarokh in Assamese, Ananas in Bengali; this juicy and succulent tropical fruit is one of the popular cash crops of Manipur. Grown mostly on the slopes of the foot-hills, the fruit is famous for its fleshy flavour and delicious taste. While the outer appearance looks spiky, the inner is fibrous and yellow in colour. Free from fat and cholesterol and rich in vitamin C, it’s well known for its anti-oxidant properties. A plant of the genus Ananas in the family Bromeliaceae, pineapple is eaten fresh, cooked, juiced or preserved etc.

The fruit is believed to have been originated in Brazil and Paraguay in South America. Afterwards, some Europeans, including Christopher Columbus, first discovered it in 1493 on the Caribbean Island of Guadeloupe. Back in Europe, members of European royal families liked it for its taste and tried to grow in hot houses. The rich, the elite, the noble, all had taken the fruit as a status symbol even.

The fruit starts expanding its growing base areas in many tropical regions. Today, the half of the total world produce is said to have concentrated in Southeast Asian countries.  Philippines top the production chart, while countries like Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia are following closely.  In mainland India, the Portuguese had reportedly introduced it in 1548 AD.

A variety known as Yelhang Kihom

Unknown to the outside world, the fruit in fact has long been growing in Manipur since time immemorial. The local variety can be broadly divided into two types namely: 1) Meitei Kihom, and 2) Yelhang Kihom. The countryside at Ngariyan, Andro, Kaina, Thayong, and Waithou in Imphal East and Thoubal districts respectively are where Meitei Kihom – Queen type – is growing mostly. Khousabung, Bunglon, Ningthiching, Phunchongjang villages of Churachandpur district are nursery-beds of Yelhang Kihom – Kew variety. While the Q starts arriving in local markets from May onwards, the K follows from August to October. About the quality of local Kihom, Sir James Johnstone, the British political agent posted in Manipur (1877-1886), once wrote in his book, My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills; “Here I have seen boat-loads of pineapples landed, fruit that would have done credit to Covent Garden”. 

It’s customary for Manipuri Hindu followers to offer this fruit to Lainingthou Sanamahi, the Meitei family deity, and Lord Jagannath, during the nine-day Rathajatra festival held in the month of July every year. While the Q is sweeter than K, the latter is bigger in size and juicier. The weight varies from one to three kg., while the price ranges from 10 to 25 INR. The fruit is mostly grown organically – without chemical fertilizer and pesticide. The poor farmers can’t afford the luxury of costly inputs and it’s a blessing for health conscious consumers. Moreover, farm-yard manure and compost are easily available. Elevated foot-hills where rain-water can be drained naturally are suitable for the plant. The soil and climatic condition here are conducive for the growth of the fruit. Pineapple leaves are used to extract fiber yarn also.

Meitei Kihom -- sweet and succulent

In the early eighties, Manipur Agriculture department produced and marketed pineapple juice, jam, and jelly under the brand names Magfruit and Heirang respectively. The products were found very popular and even exported to Russia. A fruit processing and cold storage Co-operative Society at Lamphelpat, Imphal, also once tried its best to market pineapple products. A couple of small time private enterprises are also working here.

To encourage marginal farmers, a State level “Pineapple Fair cum Youth Festival” popularly known as Kihom Mela, at Yairipok Thambalnu Keithel of Poiroukhongjin village, is held every year by Development Organisation Andro Kendra (DOAK). This non-descript Keithel is situated on the roadside leading to the Govindajee Temple of Kaina. The Temple was established by Manipur king Rajashri Bhagyachandra (1764 – 1789) and lies 29 km southeast of Imphal. A pilgrimage destination of Hindu faith and birth-place of famed Ras Leela, Kaina is known for its scenic landscape of lotus flower and surrounding hills. The area is literally full of pineapples. With unstinting support from local MLA, Shri Th. Shyamkumar Singh, this Mela includes a Pineapple Beauty Contest also. The students of Andro Assembly Constituency, who secured positions in their annual examinations of class X and XII, are being rewarded during the festival.

Manipur is tucked away in the northeastern  part of India situated between latitude 23⁰ 83^’ N to 25⁰ 68^’ N and longitude 93⁰ 03^’ E to 94⁰ 78^’ E covering an area of 22,327 sq km., surrounded by Myanmar on the east, Mizoram, Assam, and Nagaland on the south, west, and north respectively. The altitude ranges from 40 m at Jiribam to 2,994 m at Mt. Iso peak. The State has varying climatic areas ranging from sub-alpine mountaintop of Senapati district to hot and humid plain of Jiribam, bordering Cachar district of south Assam. With average annual rainfall of 1,467 mm, many fruits thrive in here. The orange of Tamenglong, the lemon of Kachai (Ukhrul), are other popular horticultural products of the State. Manipur pineapple, however, is reported to be suitable in humid areas, not above 1000 m from the mean sea level, with temperature 22⁰ – 32⁰ Celsius and rainfall around 100 – 150 cm.

Fruits of Manipur are wide and varied. The tasty, juicy, pineapple is organically grown, comparatively cheap, and affordable to all, unlike the ones available in far-off metropolis outside the State.

Konjengbam Kameshore

UYOKCHING GARDEN

Bird's eye-view of Kakching town seen from the garden

Photo by JK

Kakching today is proud of its beautiful garden located on the spur of a hillock popularly known as Uyokching Garden. Situated forty five km south of Imphal along the Indo-Myanmar road, surrounded by pine trees, adorned with colourful flowers of different shapes and sizes, the garden is one of the most visited spots in Manipur. The nature lovers, students, picnickers, worshippers, sight-seers, in short people from different spectrum of lives used to throng the place every day.

"Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,

And waste its sweetness on the desert air"- Thomas Gray.

Photo by JK

The garden is unique by itself for its two well known idols of different faiths consecrated separately. One is that of Mahadev while the other is a pre-Hindu sylvan deity popularly known as Haoreima Shampubi. The devotees used to pay obeisance to both the idols simultaneously. This may perhaps be the only place in the entire country where believers of two religious groups co-worship peacefully within a calling distance -- a unity in diversity indeed.

The footpath inside the garden.

Photo by JK

Watching the Kakching town below, at the base of the hill or Tengnoupal village hill-top, towards Moreh at Indo-Myanmar border, at the end of the horizon, is rather panoramic. The Hotel Classic has opened one unit, catering refreshments to visitors. Flowers like dianthus, tulip, marigold, chrysanthemum, hibiscus, dahlias, red rose etc., bloom all the time in turn. A rare flower, ingellei (hedychium  coccineum), along with exotic orchids are here.

The Sun and the Silhouette.

Photo by JK

The need of a beautiful garden in Manipur, where blockades and bandhs have become a recurring social phenomenon, has long been felt by one and all. The desire of the hard working local people to get a respite from the grinding realities of daily lives, probably on the lap of Mother Nature, has resulted in the form of this garden. Started in June 1997 on the initiative of local MLA, Y. Surchandra Singh, the garden has been taking shape slowly yet steadily since then. One of the best places to see flowers in its natural environ and serene surrounding, the Garden is literally jammed with endless streams of visitors on holidays. Local clubs usually are seen helping regulate the traffic on these occasions. The area in fact is the rice bowl of Imphal valley. Indigenous fish and delicacies like Soibum, Yongchak, U-morok (king chilli), Kakching bora, are popular items at the nearby market.

Konjengbam Kameshore

THE DANCING DEER

Sangai (Cervus eldi eldi) 

The Sangai deer (Cervus eldi eldi) is one of the three sub-species found in Southeast Asia – the other two being Cervus eldi Thamin and Cervus eldi Siamensis. The Thamin is mainly found in Myanmar and parts of Thailand whereas the Siamensis in Thailand, Vietnam and parts of Cambodia and Laos.

Unlike the other two, the Sangai is on the brink of extinction. Its only habitat on the entire globe is the Keibul Lamjao National Park (KLNP), 50 km. south of Imphal. Situated on the periphery of Loktak Lake, the Park covers an area of 40 sq. km.

In the month of January 1979 angry villagers, for want of agricultural land, set fire to the check-posts, buildings and dry grass of the Park. The helpless Sangai was caught and devoured. The state government’s fine of rupees fifty thousand each on two neighbouring villages did not help much.

Prior to 1891 the Sangai was protected by a royal decree and anyone found killing it was punished in most deterrent way. Their hands were reportedly chopped off even. Captain Harvey, the president of Manipur state durbar, introduced games rules in 1931 and by 1934 hunting at Keibul Lamjao was completely banned. In 1951 E.P. Gee, the great conservationist, was informed that the Sangai deer was almost extinct. International union for conservation of nature and natural resources was alerted.

On May 15, 1973 the Wildlife (Protection) Act 1972 was enacted in the state and under section 64 of the Act, the Wildlife (Protection) Rules 1974 were introduced. An aerial census with a helicopter was conducted in March 1975 and found 14 Sangai once believed to be extinct alive.

Inside the KLNP lie three hillocks namely Chingjao, Pabotching and Toyaching. Thangbrel Yangbi, Bogra Yangbi, Hangamhoubi Yangbi are elevated grasslands. The Khordak River cuts across the Park.

The semi-floating habitat of the animal made of tangled and decayed reeds and grass mixed with humus called phumdi is unique and somewhat similar to schwingmoor of Europe. In the rainy season it floats whereas in the winter it gets nutrients from the bottom of the Lake. This cycle has been rudely interrupted by Loktak project. The delicate ecosystem faces a threat.

Konjengbam Kameshore

(Courtesy: North East Sun, New Delhi, April 24-30, 1993)

PAHARI -- THE MONARCH OF MUSIC

Nongmaithem Pahari

Nongmaithem Pahari, the monarch of modern Manipuri songs, has captivated the hearts of thousands of music lovers inside and outside the state since the early sixties. Although romantic and moody songs are his forte, he has displayed the uncanny skill in light and tripping tunes also. The secret of his unparalleled success is the result of meticulous care in the execution of his work and a constant striving for perfection.

He cut disc records in 78 rpm first. With the logo of a country boy playing flute in yellow colour, the shellac disc records of Hindusthan (Calcutta) were soon followed by 45 rpm extended plays. Songs like Pongi chekla, Napam lamdam etc., were instant hits that sold out like hot cakes. There was a peculiar depth and poignancy in songs like Yairipok lamdam, Kunjamala etc., expressing his yearning for poetic justice.

This versatile singer is endowed with a mellifluous voice which can smoothly run the gamut of emotions. Leiman challabi, Ho nongdol leichil etc., are the songs tinged with sadness that express an intense longing for love not satiated with realisation.

Asumna cheina, Khoidaba kanabu yaobano etc., are the songs sung in lusty rhythmic styles. His genre is unique and far from yodelling types (which generally are splintered and warped like a cross between a jackal's cry and a crow's). The pathetic fallacy in him is expressed in songs like Momon noktuna phingou setpi thajana, written by Kh. Prakash.

Before 1972 most of his songs were written by B. Jayantakumar Sharma. Later, Sarat Arambam penned most of the hits like Kellaba samjigi leirangni, Nangna leini etc., that created a ripple among the fans and became instant chartbusters. (A phenomenon  by himself, the lyricist Sarat Arambam who died young was then an angry young poet out to burn the town by the consuming flame of unrequited love).

Had there been any threat to Pahari's singing career, it could have perhaps been none other than Tombisana Sharma and Prof. Iboyaima respectively. Tombisana Sharma was more or less as popular as Pahari. But Tombisana slowly faded into the sewer of memory. Iboyaima's was somewhat unique. His songs, though few, were very popular. Nungsijaruba eina was scripted by Jayantakumar and this song was first sung by Pahari. Soon Iboyaima sung it in a different style in slower rhythm with an alap in the antara of the song and his was more popular and recognised by the music lovers. However, people used to call him "Poor man's Pahari".

The list of Pahari's hits is very long indeed. Ahingda khongbi tamna, Meragi thabalda,Ho bansi, Tajmahal, He ima Manipur etc., are the few among them. Apart from being a front rank singer, he also wrote plays and directed music in a number of Manipuri films.

Born on August 28, 1934 in Imphal, Pahari got his training in Hindustani classical music from Ustad Ningthoujam Amubi and Mutum Modhu respectively. Soon he went to the Bhatkhande Music College of Lucknow and became a sangeet visharad. Thereafter he joined AIR Imphal as a staff artiste. Sitting on the pinnacle of fame as a romantic singer, his versatility and continuous hold on the public is even greater today.

Konjengbam Kameshore
(Courtesy; Eastern Panorama, Shillong, August, 1994)

TAMENGLONG -- NATURE'S CORNUCOPIA

Hill view near Longmai village.

 Photo: Manihar

Tamenglong is one of the beautiful districts of India tucked away in the north eastern state of Manipur. Its mysterious caves, splendid waterfalls, deep gorges and exotic orchids are unique by themselves. Watching sunset from this windswept district headquarters is simply breathtaking.

The district covers an area of 4,391 sq km with a population of 86,276 (1991 census). The Rongmei, Liangmei, Zemei and Kukis are the main tribes. In the river valleys of the Barak, Irang, Maku, Leimatak and Iyei, rice is cultivated. On the steep hillsides, the slash and burn method of cultivation called jhoom is widely practised. Juicy oranges and other citrus fruits are grown in abundance. Yongchak (parkia speciosa), banana, bamboo shoots are important crops. Tea has been growing in the district since time immemorial and it is being sipped preferably without sugar and milk seated around a fire.

The gharial is reportedly found in the Maku River near Oinamlong in Tousem subdivision. The great Indian hornbill, uchek langmeidong, seasonally migrates from Tamenglong to Keilam hill range, down south in Churachandpur district. The brown-back hornbill, rufous-neck hornbill, Indian pied or lesser pied hornbill are here. The hoolock gibbon, yongmu, is also found.

Different species of orchids thrive in this rain forest. Twisting bundle of tree roots that can’t grow down spread out as much as fifty feet along the surface, like buttresses on Gothic cathedral. Epiphytal orchids like Samjirei (Rhynchostylis retusa) and Kwaklei (Vanda coerulea) etc grow on them. On the damp forest floor terrestrial genera like Lady’s slipper (Paphiopedilum hirsutissimum) grows. Rhododendrons, wild azaleas of several kinds and tree ferns are abundant. Leihao (Michelia champaca), Uningthou (Phoebe hainesenia) are some of the fine timber trees growing here.

Tharon cave (976 metres above msl) locally known as Kalemki – the house of bats – is located 4 km north of Tharon village near Tamenglong-Tamei road in Reyanglong hills. There are fourteen passages inside the cave with three openings, two of them leading to a stream. Protohandaxe, cleaver, scraper etc of edge-ground pebble tools belonging to Hoabinhian culture were reportedly found. The rock type of the area is said to be sandstone of Barail series.

Rarefied mountain air and fertile river valley.

Photo: Manihar

National highway no. 53 cuts through the district connecting Imphal with Silchar in southern Assam. Noney, also called Longmai, which lies on the highway, is 63 km from Imphal and second biggest town of the district. Small fishes caught from the crystal clear shallow water of meandering river Iyei, a tributary of Barak River, are fried fresh for catering to bus passengers. Crabs seeking shelter under the stone slabs of gushing streams end up as statistics in the ledgers of local hotel managers.

The old Cachar road, also known as Tongjei Maril, passes through the district via Khoupum valley. The route was widened under the supervision of Captain Guthrie of Bengal Engineers between 1837 and 1844. A legendary hero of Manipur, Maibam Tamrasingh, ran all the way from Silchar to Imphal, covering about 138 miles during the reign of King Chandrakirti in August 1874.

 The district in fact is a paradise for naturalists. Its rain forests are not the fearsome, snake infested areas that only an Indiana Jones could love, but ecological cornucopias that provided the tribals a good living. And nature’s landmarks like Zeliad lake, Barak waterfalls etc., provide a lifetime opportunity to experience and appreciate nature’s gift to man.

Konjengbam Kameshore

(Courtesy: North East Sun, New Delhi, Sept. 24 - 30, 1994)

FAR FROM MADDING CROWD

Bazaar view of Noney (Longmai). 

Photo: Manihar

NONEY -- a beautiful and picturesque village of Tamenglong district in Manipur lies 63 km west of Imphal, inhabited by the Rongmei Naga tribe. Situated on the left bank of the Iyei river, its another name is Longmai. It connects Imphal with Silchar in Assam. Lukhambi, Nungtek, Marangching, Langkhong etc., are surrounding villages for which Noney is the commercial centre.

This landlocked village is very popular for its bananas. The area is literally full of bananas and bamboos. A delectable item called Soibum made from fermented slices of bamboo shoots is very much in demand.

Noney -- picturesque and grandeur.

Photo: Manihar

Agriculture is the mainstay of the population. Wet rice is cultivated in the fertile river valley whereas on the steep hillsides the slash and burn method of farming is done. Maize, cucumber, tapioca etc., are grown along with orange and other citrus fruits. A popular tree bean called Yongchak is in abundance. This bean makes quick cash. Tea and cardamom are grown in the wilds. Sipping this tea with neither sugar nor milk in it, by sitting around a fire, is a popular practice. A coffee farm is also being experimented.

The Rongmei Naga of Noney (Longmai)

Photo: Manihar

Video parlours are in great demands, where Jackie Chan cassettes are popular. Youngsters in their jeans and T-shirts happily sing "there was something in the air that night" of Fernando fame. All are Christians by faith. Mr. K. Gaichui, secretary of the village authority, says that the bazaar near the river is not older than twenty years. During this short period it has grown fast because of the good communication maintained by border roads people. Had it not been for them the present position of the village could have been different.

The Iyei river at Noney during dry season.

Photo; Manihar

Small fishes caught from the crystal clear shallow water of the meandering river, which is a tributary of the Barak, are fried fresh in the hotels for catering to bus passengers. Crabs seeking shelter under the slabs of gushing streams end up as statistics in the ledgers of the hotel managers.

Far from the madding crowd of Imphal and an ideal spot for picnicking -- Noney is another feather in the wonder cap of mysterious Tamenglong.

Konjengbam Kameshore
(Courtesy; North East Sun, New Delhi, Aug.28 - Sept.3, 1993)
Photo: Manihar, Sanjoy Photo Studio, Noney

THE CYMBAL QUEEN

Manimacha Devi (1st from right) with her troupe.

Manimacha Devi, the cymbal queen, is a great female singer of Manipuri nata sankirtana genre. When she breaks into song, she is a flamboyant bird wafting her luminous wings for a flight of melody tinged with bhakti. The music permeats her whole being -- her face changes expression with every line of song and her frame swings gently with every nuance of lyric. Her eyelashes flutter with tears down the cheek. The ultimate devotion is ecstatic.

She courageously fought a battle that was won and lost. She was excommunicated by Sangeet Natya Sabha (SNS), with tacit backing from Brahma Sabha and Govinda Temple Board. A female singer was to fight a Goliath for her professional survival. A tragic heroine was to search a medium to fully express her musical talents.

The use of kartal by female singers during nata sankirtana performance was objected by the SNS tooth and nail saying that it was an anathema to the parampara of the music. The grip of Vaishnavism in the Manipuri Hindu society was then very strong and the social mores and religious traditions were fixed by the Brahma Sabha. Anybody who went beyond the parameter was to face the ire and the resultant excommunication followed. Manimacha and her party had suffered the humiliation and pang of dejection.

Born on December 26, 1929 in Imphal, Manimacha Devi today is a happy and contended singer. She best recaptures her voluptuous past in the glory of the devotional songs she had sung. Sitting on the pinnacle of fame as a nata sankirtana singer, her versatility and continuous hold on the public is even more firmed.

Encouraged by her father Ibochouba to become a great artiste, she took part in gour leela, sansenba, etc., from an early age. Naorem Mani was her adi guru while musical celebrities of her time like Meisnam Guru Amubi, Haobam Oja Tomba, Akham Tomba, Sorokhaibam Paka, Yumnam Natum, and Ngangom Jugindro etc., also taught her the intricacies of song rendering.

Her singing career also took a new turn after her marriage. On her husband Thokchom Modhu's insistence, she went to the school of Konjengbam Oja Atoyaima of Sagolband to learn further the secret techniques of nata sankirtana. This Oja is more or less responsible for what she could achieve today and she proudly acknowdledges that she is a product of Atoyaima gharana.

With blessings from Oja Atoyaima, Manimacha and her party started singing sankirtana in standing position by holding mandila in their hands with abhinaya.  Before that, the female singers used to sit on the floor of the mandapa  where the sankirtana was held.

The experiment of holding  kartal by female singers was successful and widely acclaimed by the public. However, the members of the SNS objected to that and thus started the war of attrition between Manimacha Devi and the SNS. She fought a court battle for five years.

Her sterling qualities were her good looks and mellifluous voice. She soon became a rage, an instant success and an unprecedented sell out.

At Heirok village, along the Indo-Burma road, one of her fans, Rupamani, organised a Basok in which Manimacha Devi's party was invited to sing. Rupamani announced through a loud speaker to dare excommunicate her for organising the programme. Thus Manimacha's admirers grew by leaps and bounds.

Finally, Manimacha Devi won the court case. She and her party were allowed to sing and dance with kartal in the mandapa of Shri Govindaji.

Manimacha Devi

In 1972 a hari sankirtana was performed in the temple of Shri Govindaji and Manimacha Devi and her party was formally invited to participate. In 1973 a programme was organised by the state government to commemorate the statehood day celebration. In 1979 a festival of Geeta Govinda was arranged by the Manipur State Kala Akademy and Manimacha Devi and Tampakleima got invitation for that. It is interesting to note that the chairman of the festival committee was Sagolsem Kalidaman who at one time was the president of SNS. No voice of protest, let alone excommunication, ever came from him.

In 1971 Manimacha Devi was invited to America to sing Nupipala along with Kunjeswari and Tampakleima -- a programme sponsored by Ranganiketan International of ISKCON. In 1974 the prestigious "Manipur State Kala Akademy Award" was bestowed upon her in recognition of her tireless contribution for the cause of Manipuri nata sankirtana genre.

Manimacha today is an institution by herself. Charangpat Bino, Chajing Angoubi, Praneswari and Sorojini, popular singers of the day, are the proud pupils of Manimacha Devi.

Konjengbam Kameshore
(Courtesy: North East Sun, New Delhi, Nov. 28, 1996)

TOWARDS A LITERARY MOVE

Manipur Public Library, Imphal

The concept of a library started in Manipur in the year 1940 by Nongmeikapam Gopal and his friends. The Imphal Public Library was established by them on a piece of land given by the state durbar at Nagamapal. Another library called Manipur Public Library was constructed in 1950 by a Marwari businessman  named Balchand Patni in his father Premsukh Patni's name near the Gandhi Memorial Hall, Imphal.

In 1958 a District Library and a Children's Library were started respectively by the state. Soon the District Library became State Central Library (SCL) and the Children's Library was merged with it on August 26, 1970. Now there are branches at Ukhrul, Mao, Tamenglong, Churachandpur, Chandel and Ningthoukhong etc.

In 1972 Raja Rammohun Roy Library Foundation (RRRLF) was started by the union government in Calcutta and since then it has been doling out numerous assistance to libraries throughout the length and breadth of the country. Manipur is not an exception and various voluntary organisations are doing library service and they get regular and in the form of matching and non-matching grants besides the state funding.

Manipur Library Association (MALA) was formed on May 24, 1987 with a view to accelerate the pace of the movement for good. A quarterly journal entitled Librarygi Ehou (Library Movement) was published in June 1988 with Dr. Khomdon.

Library week, orientation course, symposium, book exhibition, conference, seminar etc., are held from time to time by the MALA which now has two branches at Kakching and Jiribam respectively. Among the voluntary organisations running library service, Ideal Youth Club, Kakching; Chongabi Relief and Development Organisation, Uchekon; Young Development Association, Ahongsangbam Leikai; Naharol Yaiphakol, Naorem Leikai; Universal Library, Kongpal and Educational Guide Centre, Singjamei; are, among others, in the forefront of the movement

Konjengbam Kameshore
(Courtesy: North East Sun, New Delhi, Feb 12-18, 1994)

MOREH and TAMU -- Gateway to Southeast Asia

A Buddhist Monastery at Tamu - (Photo by JK)

Moreh – the last Indian township in Manipur – bordering Myanmar is just 110 km from state capital Imphal. Connected by NH 2 better known as Indo-Myanmar road, it takes about two hours to reach there in normal time. However, there are unpredictable road frisking by Assam Rifles and state police at many points causing undue delays. From Imphal to Pallel the driving is in the valley and on straight lined road. From Pallel to Moreh the passage is in the hills, serpentine and narrow. Those who suffer from motion sickness, it’s advisable to drive slowly enjoying the hill view. Inhabited mainly by the Kuki-Chin-Mizo tribes, Moreh has a sizeable chunk of Meiteis, Pangals (Manipuri Muslim), south Indians, and Biharis etc. A thriving commercial centre with a population of 16,847 (2011 Census), the township is  popular not only for its neighbouring Myanmar markets located at Namphalong (hardly a few steps away) and Tamu (4 km) but also for beautiful jungle and exotic orchids around.

From Tengnoupal – 69 km from Imphal and a former sub-divisional headquarters of Chandel district – parts of Imphal valley and Kabaw valley respectively in fine weather can be descried on opposite directions. Famed for its salubrious climate and the highest point along the route having an altitude of 1,450 m above msl, this village was strafed by Japanese bombers during Second World War in 1942. Inhabited by the Thadou Kukis pork, dog-meat, chilli, ginger, wild mushroom of various kind and other jungle grown vegetables are sold by tribal women in their vendors near the police outpost. You may be subjected to frisking by Assam Riffles. This frisking will be repeated again at Khudengthabi, 7 km before Moreh. The inside of the vehicle you’re travelling included. Earlier, there were cases of drug peddlers arrested with their contraband items along this highway. On nearing the Moreh town, from above the hill, the panoramic view of Myanmar’s Sagaing region popularly known as Kabaw Tampak or Kyam Lamjao in Manipuri which once was under Meitei Kings of Manipur can be seen. Tamu is their business hub.

In the morning market at Moreh, women vendors from Tamu come with their wares. With thanaka – a yellowish white cosmetic paste – smeared on their face to protect the sun-ray, perishable items like fish and vegetable are sold on the pavement.  One item which attracts us most was Utongchak in Manipuri, Paung din in Burmese, Kao lam in Thai. The sweet smelled, sticky, black rice (a species of Oryza sativa L.) is stuffed inside a particular bamboo stalk and cooked it in charcoal. When taken out, the cooked rice is found wrapped by the tissue paper of the bamboo inside. It’s very tasty, natural and wholesome indeed. Freshly cut flowers in various colours are sold. Clad in lungi, face pasted with thanaka, wearing a broad hat, riding either a moped or a scooter carrying her wares, this is a typical Burmese woman coming to the market.

Tamu Township in Kabaw Valley (Kyam Lamjao) seen

from a Buddhist Monastery - (Photo by JK)

When visiting Moreh, one can go to Yangoupokpi Lokchao Wildlife Sanctuary (YLWS); an interesting spot for naturalists covering an area of 184.4 sq. km. Established on March 21, 1989 the eastern boundary of YLWS is up to Myanmar border and Moreh town. It’s the only place in India where one can find Green Peafowl (Pavo muticus), Wahong Asangba in Manipuri, in this Teak-Gurjan and Tropical Moist Deciduous forest.  Declared an endangered species since 2010 by Birdlife International, the bird is distinct from common Indian Peafowl. Many other rare species of flora and fauna including Hoolock Gibbon (Yongmu) – the only ape ever found in India – and colourful orchids of  terrestrial and epiphyte varieties thrive here.  Inside the Sanctuary there are forest villages like Kwatha and Bongjang etc. A part of eastern Himalayan endemic bird area famous for harbouring rare species, the area in fact is well known for its rich bio-diversity and perhaps an ideal spot for jungle tourism (had it not been for bad law and order problem). October to April is the best time to visit this unexplored rain forest.

Vans in front of rice hotels at Moreh - (Photo by JK)

For entering Myanmar territory, there are two gates. Gate no.1 is for travellers with vehicles going Tamu direct while Gate no. 2 is for pedestrians shopping at Namphalong. Going through Gate no.1 you can see a bridge painted half white half red over a river guarded by security forces at both ends of it.

 Namphalong – a few steps distance from Moreh (India) – inside Myanmar is separated only by barbed wire fencing and is a market place sponsored by Myanmar government to cater to the needs of Indian buyers. One can surprisingly find many Nepali origin Burmese women selling clothes, crockery, household electronic appliances, fruits, toys etc., imported mainly from China and Thailand. A favourite fish of the Manipuri, Pengba (Osteobrama balangeri) and stink bean, Yongchak (Parkia speciosa), are sold here. Dressed chicken smeared with turmeric paste to retain freshness, Mandarin orange and apple from China are popular items here, among others. Their markets remain closed on full-moon days.

 Entering Namphalong is almost free. The entrance gate is open from 7 am to 4 pm IST daily. For visiting Tamu, one has to deposit his ID card at check-post gate of Myanmar authority with a ticket of 10 INR. Auto rickshaws are available and the fare is 10 INR a passenger to cover 4 km distance. He should return before 4 pm IST which is 5 pm in Myanmar. For travellers who want to go beyond Tamu, visa-on-arrival facility is on the anvil at Moreh. A bus service from Imphal to Mandalay via Moreh is in the offing.

Tamu is a fast growing Myanmar township. Near a beautiful golf field started by erstwhile British officers, there’s a sprawling campus of a big Monastery.  Monks in maroon robes with bare heads and bare feet were seen teaching children. Led by a Burmese auto driver who was our guide, we found ourselves seated inside the prayer hall of the Monastery. A traditional Burmese lunch, hosted by a newlywed couple, consisting mainly of rice and fish was being served to visitors. We offered some money as gifts to the couple. 

     

Another tourist spot is known as Thoibi Pat to the Manipuris. The legend has it that princess Thoibi of Moirang (Manipur) once took refuge here. A Pagoda is standing near a pond. In fact Pagodas are inseparable parts of the landscape. In the market the selling as usual is done mainly by women. Many of them surprisingly could speak some broken Manipuri.

The people of Tamu are courteous and helpful. No need for currency exchange. Indian rupees are happily accepted. Almost every article of household items is sold here. However, when buying items like canned fruit juice and tinned fish, care has to be taken whether the composition of the item including the expiry date is printed properly. When written in Chinese, Thai or Burmese, other than English, it becomes a problem for us. Moreover, English language newspaper or magazine is nowhere to be found. 

Hill view near Yangoupokpi Lokchao Wildlife Sanctuary - (Photo by JK)

This Indo-Myanmar region which is strategically located and commercially important attracts many visitors from different spectrum of lives far and wide – the tourists, students, officials, businessmen et al. To see foreign tourists on cycles and bikes for destinations up to Bangkok or Singapore are regular phenomenon here. Accommodations are available at Forest Rest House, Indo-Myanmar Trade Centre Rest House, Transit Camp of Wildlife Office and many other private hotels on prior booking. In fact Moreh and Tamu are two townships of India and Myanmar lying so close to each other and apart from being a gateway to Southeast Asia, they are perhaps a shopper’s paradise worth visiting.

Konjengbam Kameshore